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Home arrow Down in the PIT / Repairs arrow 2x9 MTB Setup
 
2x9 MTB Setup PDF Print E-mail
Written by Erik Osborn   
Tuesday, 08 April 2008
The Pit Featured Article
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I’m a big fan of 2x9 for XC racing. The smaller ring in a 2x9 setup (typically 29 or 30 tooth) is perfect for a variety of terrain that would normally have me flipping back and forth between the granny and the middle ring. Granny gears are prone to chainsuck too, so I’m cool with not having one.

When I bought my first high-end race bike back in 2001, it came with a CODA double crankset. I recently set up my old CODA double with some new parts that have worked exceptionally well out of the box. This should also work with Surly’s new 94mm BCD Mr. Whirly Crank (check out Al’s recent post ).

Here’s the setup:

  • SRAM PC991 Chain
  • SRAM PC990 Cassette (I like the full 11x34 range for 2x9)
  • Salsa 42 or 44T 94mm BCD big ring
  • Surly steel 30T 94mm BCD little ring

  • The Salsa big ring is a perfect choice because it doesn’t have ramps or pins, which means when you are in the little ring you can use smaller cogs without the big ring starting to grab the chain. This is key to my 2x9 riding style which is to minimize front-shifts by staying in the little ring and using a wider range of cogs. I thought that the lack of ramps and pins would mean that shifts to the big ring would be grinding and slow. This turns out not to be true: the shifts are smooth and take just a fraction of a second longer, but that’s all.

    The Surly little ring is also a perfect choice because it is steel. Little rings wear faster, which leads to chainsuck (seems to be a parania of mine). A steel ring solves this problem and will last forever. Well worth the extra weight in my book.

    And you won’t go wrong with SRAM’s chains and cogs. The Power Link is a mechanic’s best friend. No need to pop rivets or take apart your front derailleur if you want to take your chain off.

    Be sure to check frame clearance: I have just a couple mm on my newer frame, and I suspect that the old frames built specifically for the CODA double might have been designed with a bit more space.

    I finally bought one of these tools after years of trying to hold chainring nuts with a screwdriver or my finger, neither of which works too well. Highly recommended if you do any chainring swapping.

    Last Updated ( Tuesday, 08 April 2008 )
     
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